Beyond majestic, wrinkled mountains and glistening glaciers, past the worn-thin touristy attractions of Leh city, Ladakh offers the opportunity to experience the gentle charm and authentic richness of Ladakhi culture and hospitality. This is a story of the Phyang and Phey village farmstays, the women who run it all and one man’s relentless efforts at rural resurgence. It was a Saturday night in the city and I was sitting amongst friends and acquaintances, discussing our carefully collected money, office leaves and where to go with it. We all had this itch sometimes and it grew silently when we least noticed it; a deep desire to get up and move. Maybe it was just too much of the city. Maybe it was because we were restless 20-somethings. Maybe we just craved something different sometimes.

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