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Saaj: A Celebration of the Ethno-aesthetic Expression of Maharashtrian with Socio-developmental Goals

Saaj: A Celebration of the Ethno-aesthetic Expression of Maharashtrian with Socio-developmental Goals

by Shruti Sancheti October 14 2013, 5:00 pm Estimated Reading Time: 2 mins, 44 secs

Maharashtra, the magnificent state which boasts a vibrant and cosmopolitan identity with an illustrious history, diverse culture and fiercely proud society is an integral part of India. The region from time immemorial flaunts the distinguished hand-woven textiles and costumes which is a by-product of traditional and cultural ethos of weavers; but the consumer’s insatiable appetite for neoteric designs as an effect of their urban lifestyles has resulted in weaving becoming an extinct art along with increase in unemployment rate of weavers in Maharashtra. Therefore, with the fortification of Maharashtra State Handloom Corporation which was formulated in 1971 with its socio economic objective being to provide employment and overall welfare and security to the weavers ; with whom I have been working since the past one year; working on my Lakme Fashion Week A/W 13 collection has a twofold primary objective, firstly to revive the ancient abandoned weaves of the region inculcating a contemporary twist with reference to changing consumer preferences in addition to generate employment for weavers and with reverence to their refined craftsmanship lure them back to their inherited skilled craft.

Exploring Maharashtra and its handloom weaving gave me an opportunity to further research on the impressive and elegant cultural dressing predilections of Maharashtrians who have a unique sense of style; which can be summed in one Marathi word : ‘Saaj’. It signifies refinery and can depict the elaborate way of dressing and accessorizing. This season brings with it the primarily usage of the lesser known humble but however equally intricate and impeccable weaves like the untapped but magnificent Shahpuri, Rasta, Narli, Ruiphool, Karvatkati, Jyot, etc. To impart a pan Marathi flavor to the collection, inspiration is drawn from the glorious Paithani for embroidery rather than the conventional weave along with utilization of Aari Embroidery, Resham, etc as means of surface ornamentation. The base fabric is an amalgamation of Pure Spun Silk, Woven Silk with Cotton Blend and Nagpuri Checks all coalesced together.

Keeping the Marathi penchant for vibrancy, the colour palette is warm and festive with accent of Resplendent Liquid Gold, Scintillating Crimson, Fuchsia, Emerald Greens, Radiant Indigo Blue, Vivacious Purples, etc combined with unconventional patterns derived from motifs like Peacock, Maharastrian Nose Rings and Karvats which are further developed using various hand printing techniques like Block, Screen and Foil Printing is worked along well with festive, layered and elaborate silhouettes with profound emphasis on tradition but absolutely au courant styling to lend a festive look. Some unconventional silhouettes like the Ghagra Anarkalis (Anarkalis from front and Ghagra from Back), Pallazo Ghagra Choli, Lugda Pants, Jamas, Achkans, Chugas, Jewelry Necklines and Uneven Kalidars bestow the contemporary festive character apart from the conventional Maxi Anarkalis, Sarees, Tunics and Jumpsuits. To give the whole collection a Maharashtrian yet sophisticated look, each outfit is styled with old Peshwai jewelry with a voguish twist.

Each piece is refined and festive yet tempered to allow its consumer to create its own statement. The entire look is purely cultural and is meant for a woman who takes pride in her unsurpassed glorious heritage and is fascinated by her cultural and traditional aesthetics yet has an international vision and approach in style. A true calling for WOMEN WHO HAVE AN ARTISTIC TRADITIONAL INSTINCT ROLLED UP THEIR SLEEVE YET CONTEMPORARY TWIST IN STYLE




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