“As a nutritionist and a mother, I will always give what is best for my baby,” a lab-coated woman pledges in a recent ad for Nestle’s Nan H.A. 3, before she hugs a toddling girl, and hands her a sippy cup.

If milk “does a body good,” as the classic dairy farmer ad campaign claimed, then toddler milk—the heavily fortified and increasingly lucrative milk drinks aimed at children more than a year-old—promise to do even better.

Also known as “growing-up milk” or “GUMPs” (growing-up milk products) by the companies that make them, powdered milk-based beverages for the 1- to 5-year-old set have exploded into a $15 billion business.

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