Trailblazing Indian mountaineer Chandraprabha Aitwal: First woman to summit Nanda Devi, inspiring generations. Let’s discover her journey, legacy, and insights on life through this conversation she had with Jiya M.  

Chandraprabha Aitwal, India's pioneering female mountaineer, made history as the first woman to conquer Nanda Devi, India's second-highest peak. Born in Pithoragarh, Uttarakhand, she has scaled notable summits like Kangchenjunga and Trishuli, embodying endurance and determination. Honoured with prestigious awards like the Padma Shri and the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award, Chandraprabha continues to inspire young adventurers with her advice on focus, and truly experiencing nature. Her journey is a remarkable story of self-reliance and passion, making her an enduring role model for mountaineers and adventurers worldwide.

Trailblazing Indian Mountaineer Chandraprabha Aitwal: First Woman to Summit Nanda Devi, Inspiring Generations

Born on December 24, 1941, in the town of Pithoragarh, Uttarakhand, Chandraprabha Aitwal is celebrated as the first Indian woman to reach the summit of the mighty Nanda Devi. Initially a college teacher in Pithoragarh, her path to mountaineering began when the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering circulated an invitation for a basic course in mountaineering, specifically for government teachers. Chandraprabha seized the opportunity, sparking a lifelong journey of climbing some of the world's most challenging peaks.

With notable ascents, including Kangchenjunga, Trishuli, and Nanda Devi, her remarkable accomplishments have earned her prestigious awards such as the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award for Lifetime Achievement and the Padma Shri, India's fourth highest civilian award.

Meeting someone as accomplished and inspirational as Chandraprabha was a rare privilege, and I was thrilled to interview her recently to learn more about her remarkable journey. As she shared her story, her strength and humility were awe-inspiring. Here are some of the highlights of our conversation.

Reflections on Challenges, Awards, and Life Lessons

Q: You have tackled many peaks, including Nanda Devi, the second highest in India. Could you share your experience of climbing it and the challenges you faced?

Chandraprabha recalled that her expedition to Nanda Devi was a mixed-gender team, and she was appointed as the deputy leader. During the climb, the team stopped at various camps, and at Camp 3, she developed a severe ear infection. Although the doctors accompanying her provided medication for the infection, they didn’t have vitamins, which worsened her health. Despite her illness, she continued, until a doctor from another group arrived at Camp 3 and gave her medicine that miraculously cured her. She described him as her "Bhagwan" (God). Once her health was restored, she continued the ascent, reaching the summit of Nanda Devi despite the physical and environmental challenges. Chandraprabha smiled as she recalled the pride she felt in accomplishing this feat.

Q: You are an inspiration to many young people. Did you have any role models you looked up to?

Chandraprabha simply shook her head, explaining that she had no specific role models but deeply believes that God guided her path.

Q: You were awarded the Padma Shri, India’s fourth-highest civilian honor. How did it feel to receive such recognition?

Chandraprabha reflected thoughtfully, explaining that receiving an award, whether small or large, places one on a higher pedestal, bringing with it an added sense of responsibility and a drive to achieve even more. She laughed as she shared that she wasn’t even in India on the day of the award ceremony; she was in New Zealand, and the award was sent to her by parcel. She described her happiness upon receiving it, though it was tinged with sadness, as she had no parents with whom to share the achievement since they had passed away when she was young.

Q: What are your core beliefs in life?

Chandraprabha is a devoted believer in God and nature, which she says are the cornerstones of her life and spirituality.

Q: Is there a particular quote you live by or would like to share with our readers?

After a moment of thought, Chandraprabha's sister’s granddaughter, who was present, mentioned a quote that Chandraprabha often shares with her: “जो सोवत है वो खोवत है, जो जागत है वो पावत है.” This translates to, “Those who remain passive and unaware miss out on opportunities, while those who stay alert and proactive achieve success and growth.” The quote underscores the importance of vigilance and action in life.

From Teacher to Mountaineering Pioneer

Q: Do you have any advice for young mountaineers?

Chandraprabha laughed, noting that today’s youth are often too caught up with their cell phones and, as she put it, “a bit lazy.” She explained that mountaineering demands confidence, strength, and determination, qualities that she feels are often lost in the age of digital distraction. She noted that some young people seem more focused on capturing moments for social media than on truly living in them, which, in her view, detracts from the authentic experience.

Speaking to me, a teenager, she added, “Ask yourself, ‘What is it that I can achieve? How do I stand on my own two feet?’” She believes that this self-reflective mindset is crucial not only in life but also in mountaineering. According to Chandraprabha, the true spirit of mountaineering lies not only in reaching the peak but in experiencing the entire journey, from base to summit, with commitment and focus.

Listening to Chandraprabha’s story, I was struck by her perspective on life. Even at 82, her dedication to the mountains and her belief in self-reliance serve as a powerful reminder of the value of courage, integrity, and humility.